Succulent Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani and a World More: A Historic Indian City Secures a Place on Unesco Culinary List.
Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy β including it in a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city β following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 β to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city β the administrative center of India's biggest state β is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs β as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers β is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani β the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat β zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks β lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history β influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.