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When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.